The twin motor unit fluid is replaced by the maintenance minder’s interval (there isn’t a specific mileage because it is determined by use). The only fluid recommended to be changed based on time is engine oil (once a year, regardless of mileage) and brake fluid (every three years).
First maintenance codes after one year are AB6 . 6 = twin motors
Contributor: René Koos
Report from the audio front lines…
1) The factory sub signal has a 50Hz low pass filter on it. Midbass information has to be recovered from the door speaker signals.
2) The amplifier has some kind of protection mode for the door speakers where it lowers the whole system volume upon the detection of sustained mid bass content.
3) The car is actually *too well sealed* to support the airflow requirements of an upsized subwoofer when the windows are up. The seals between the doors and the pillars, and other parts of the interior, are so good that the constant air pressure pushing back on the subwoofer is substantial. This may explain both the tuning of the factory sub, and the protection mode… pushing against high air pressure for sustained durations could cause amplifier overheat.
Stereo shop and system tuner (who have plenty of experience with other Honda/Acura systems including the ELS ones) were scratching their heads for a while until this picture all came together.
Contributor: Ben Englert
Every wonder what the car really does “on track”? I did?
Update this post with 2nd track event data
181001 NSXPO HPDE Track Test Days at Thunderhill
161231 Summary of Track Test Day at Thunderhill
We read how fast everyone is or how great the NSX performs on track, but yet there seems to be little empirical data to help those of us that would like to do this optimize the experience.
I wish we could generate a database.
I’ve found minimum information to optimize the NSX experience… to get the most out of the car. I raced in SCCA prototype classes for over 25 years. I’ve was fortunate to race at every major road course in the US that existed before 2005. I’ve track tested a couple thousand miles & raced 300+ events. I know how to optimize on track performance. Three key things: It takes time, and money, and equipment.
I track tested the NSX one time, 12/31/2016. I had a great time. I had never drive a 600HP/4000lb street machine on track. It’s addictive. It also uses up equipment at a 10:1 or 20:1 ratio to driving around on the streets. I no longer have the tools or equipment or resources (people & equipment) to go track testing in earnest… think I would like to but know I won’t.
Some lessons learned:
Brakes – CF brake pad monitoring & maintenance – Extremely important. (I would go through a set in a 2 day, 6-8 session track weekend – 150-200 miles.) Rear brake pad taper is a big problem. I think they are undersized, and lack sufficient cooling! Wish I didn’t have CF for this function – not an option at time of my purchase.
Gas-Always start a session with more than a 1/2 tank of gas. I didn’t, and ran out – not a fun experience.
Tires – Stock Conti’s seemed to work quite well, in spite of what you read. Yes, I believe there is multiple seconds to be gained with other choices… probably ending up with a sticky set of Hoosiers on 19″ rims… The point is you can track your car and really enjoy the day, without the Oooie Goooie stickiest tires available.
Tire Pressures & wear – Measure your TP’s before your go out, and measure ASAP when you come off track. I picked up 11 PSI from cold to hot. I ran 41 PSI hot and the tires looked pretty good. Feel the cross section tire temp. (A tire pyrometer would be the best. An IR gun will give you a relative reading by surfaces cool rapidly.) Inspect your tire wear. It will tell you a lot. (And the outside edge will see the most abuse.) My Conti’s held up very well on my 1 track day.
Trunk – Take every out, even the Styrofoam container… It will melt.
Consumables – If you go for a weekend track testing in earnest, count on a $1200 set of CF pads, and a new set of tires, if you go really fast. You don’t have to, & 9/10ths is still really fun! Who cares anyway. It isn’t set up in GT-3 Trim and you most likely don’t have a crew of 10 to take care of it all weekend…
Just go have fun.
And it would be really great to get a collection of “data points” so that when we have a chance to “track” out NSX, we can start with the right settings for the best experience. We can learn from each other!
I’ve attached my “Track Day Summary”
Initial Track Day NOtes 12/31/2016
Summary of Track Test Day at Thunderhill Raceway Park December 31 – Copy
NSX EV battery cell information (PDF download)
NSX is 1kW bat Vs Tesla 100kw
Submitted by Travis Duder
I put my NSX in winter storage on Nov 15th, 2017. I connected the OEM charger (CTEK) every two weeks to top up the 12 V battery. I started my NSX today after 2 1/2 months of sitting. The EV battery was at about 85% so hadn’t lost much in 2 1/2 months. The car started instantly and ran smoothly. Put it in Sport Plus and the EV battery was fully charged in about 5 minutes. I think once the EV battery is fully charged it will last 6 months. As usual Honda is being conservative recommending a 30 minute run every 90 days.
Submitted by Jim Cross
Night Visibility issue anyone?
I had a chance to drive the car in pitch dark up in Napa last weekend.
I felt the “low beam” headlight pattern was much too low to have safe visibility. Has anyone had an issue?
I got a PDF on alignment and set up to do that procedure & it’s just a pain in the butt. The lights were low by this test but it was a tough measurement.
Then I got smart. I lined up the Tesla & the NSX and compared patterns 60′ across the street. The NSX was significantly lower.
I made a 1/4 turn Clockwise on both and settled for that for now. (It would take about 5/8-3/4 turn to be as high as the Tesla.)
The NSX headlight have a very well defined pattern, or very little “fringe area”.
The NSX is also relatively bumpy ride so that’s why I settled lower than the Tesla for now.
Night visibility is improved, but I would like it a little higher I think.
Easy to do:
A 10 mm socket & 3′ extension.
Marked both adjust with a horizontal reference line toward center line of car.
1/2 turn is a significant change…
Picture & PDF below
[Another Owner feed back: QUOTE=L.L.;1959570]The guide for adjustment with visuals was very helpful. The visibility prior to adjustment was horrible at high speeds. The ideal setting for me is one full turn higher than stock. It probably could go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn before blinding other cars but probably not needed at this point.[/QUOTE]
According to an Acura Wheel Installation information sheet, the procedure to sync the TPMS sensors to the car is straightforward:
Drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds at a speed
of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all sensor IDs will
be memorized automatically.
It is unclear at this time how many times this can be repeated, but it has been used to successfully re-learn a new set of wheels by one owner already. So far, this only applies to the OEM wheels and TPMS sensors.
It is easy to find 12V access in the Roof Console.
Using the “Mirror Tap” product gives easy & very clean access to ignition controlled 12V.
My installation used “Mirror Tap” & “Blend mount” products. I did not have to run wiring along the roof liner and go into the fuse panel.
Roof console module access is: Roof Console Module 61T6NP2
NSX Wiring diagrams are here: NSX auto dim mirror wiring connector (1)
NSX mirror wiring is here: NSX auto dim mirror wiring connector (1)
This photo shows the product info and the installation: 
Every picture tells a story…
Opened the roof console per the instructions above. (Note there is a small cutout in 2 places to CAREFULLY release the light bezels, with a SMALL screwdriver…)
Two bolts (10mm socket) release the module…
The Mirror connector is on the left with the harness end attached to the roof. I removed it, but you don’t need to. (use the mirror side wiring)
The Pin 1, 12V, “lt’s grn” changes to Red on mirror side connector.
The Gnd is pin3… so its Blk
(And yes, it must be NSX magic how 3 wires go to the 5 wire mirror 😉
I chased down the interior wiring… OK, look above for:
NSX auto dim mirror wiring connector (1).pdf
NSX interior lights wiring.pdf
Lots of room up there & easy to feed the Escort connector down the same mirror wire cover in the windshield… (I bought the Escort iX because everyone else bought all the others… A year later, not that impressed 😉
Both the Blend Mount and Mirror Tap make this very easy & clean… JUST REMEMBER TO GET THE 20′ CABLE Mirror Tap… My 15″ install is a little tight… AND the right connector option for your detector!
Note that I did try to find a place to use the suction cup mount that comes with the detector. I do not believe it can be put in the “shaded area so that the GPS receiver can see the sky thru the “shade”…
Also, since the NSX 12V is “switched” so you can leave the unit ‘Auto Off” off, and then it comes on and off with the car.
End of Story…
Mirror Tap is the perfect solution… no wiring; 1 piece of shrink tube; well designed product!
Be sure to order the 20″ version with correct connector for your unit, of course. I got a 15″ version & its length is ok, but more slack would be better.
There are 4 sizes of “inserts” & I used the 2nd smallest for “+” & “-” leads, into the back of the light green mirror plug.
Pin 1 is “+” RED wire & pin 3 is “-” Black…
Pretty much done.
Sidebar Note 1 re GPS reception: My Escort GPS does not seem to receive through the NSX Glass, but it is OK under the center “dotted” mirror section.
Sidebar Note 2 about Blend Mount
Its expensive but perfect for the NSX. They do not provide the magnet & expect you to use that part from the Escort mount you received… I believe this mount allows the GPS to “see” the sky better than through the suction cup.
Enjoy!
There are several numbers that will identify your NSX. The most well-known is the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). In addition, there are identification numbers for the engine, the three electric motors, and the transmission. There is also a special Serial Number unique to each car.
The VIN is located in three areas: The base of the windshield on the driver’s side, on the floor behind the passenger seat, and on the certification label in the driver’s side door jamb.
The VIN is a unique, standardized code that identifies each vehicle. The format can vary depending on country.
Using mine as an example, here is what it can tell you:
19U NC1B0 9 H Y 800116
First three characters represents the World Manufacturer Identifier, in this case 19U represents Acura. In addition, the first character indicates country of manufacture, in this case 1 is the United States.
The next five characters is the vehicle description. NC1 is the chassis code of the second generation NSX.
The ninth character is a check digit.
The tenth character is the model year. H=2017, J=2018, K=2019, L=2020. Note that the letters ‘I’, ‘O’, and ‘Q’ are not used in the VIN. In addition, the letters ‘U’, ‘Z’ and number ‘0’ are not used for the year digit.
The eleventh character is the plant code. Y presumably represents the Performance Manufacturing Center.
The last 6 characters is the sequential number. Canadian market cars start with 8, while US market cars start with 0. In this case, this is the 116th car built for the Canadian market for model year 2017.
The serial number is located on the rear engine cover. Every new NSX has a unique serial number based on build order regardless of market, which allows the owner to know exactly when in the build sequence his or her car was built. So, for example, a serial number of 100 indicates it was the 100th vehicle to be built. Unlike the sequential portion of the VIN, it does not reset each year and does not repeat. The serial number will be continuous until production of the current generation ends. Except for the very early builds, the sequential portion of the VIN and the serial number most likely won’t match.
These are located in the following areas:
Located in the driver’s side door jamb, it contains some useful information. In addition to the VIN, it also shows the vehicle’s build date and paint code.
The paint code on the certification label may also have an extra suffix that indicates the interior color:
