Oil and Filter Change Procedure

Parts and supplies:

  • Two 4.4L jugs of 0W-40 synthetic oil
  • Oil filter element kit: Acura part 15430-RSR-E01
  • Seven(7) Honda oil plug crush washers
  • Rags, shop towels, optional incontinence pads
  • Underbody clips: Acura part 91505-TY2-003 (if you break one during removal)

 Tools:

  • Oil filter wrench:  Acura part 07AAA-T6NA100 – I measured it and the internal diameter is 74mm, with 14 flutes, which is a common size so you might even have one already for another car.
  • 10mm, 17mm, and 22mm hex sockets
  • T30 torx bit
  • Slotted screwdriver, might also need a trim removal tool
  • Clip removal tool
  • Ratchets and extensions as necessary
  • Torque wrench(es) capable of measuring 7 lb-ft to 30 lb-ft
  • Pneumatic ratchet or cordless/corded drill highly recommended
  • Form-A-funnel (or designated Acura part 07AAZ-T6NA100)
  • Oil drain pan, 10L capacity
  • Oil dispensing container, 8L capacity (like this from Amazon Canada)

Procedure:

  1.  Remove passenger side engine cover, trunk carpet, and forward trunk trim.  To remove trunk trim clips, use slotted screwdriver to unscrew the trim clips.  DO NOT pull them out.  Sometimes they will not unscrew as they cannot engage the threads.  If this happens, use a trim removal tool to gently pull the clip while turning with the screwdriver.  This should allow them to engage the threads and be removed.

  1. Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the oil filter access panel.

  1. Optional: Drive the car to warm up the oil a bit.
  2. Remove the oil filler cap and raise the car.
  3. Using 10mm socket, T30 Torx, and clip removal tool, remove the engine underbody shield.  A pneumatic ratchet or cordless drill/bit driver really comes in handy here. Try not to break those damn plastic clips (part D in the diagram below):

  1. I removed the rear center metal panel in order to remove the splash shield (although in retrospect I could have just loosened the bolts).

  1. Using 17mm socket, remove drain plugs and drain the oil into the drain pan. There are a total of 7 drain plugs. Note that there is one plug that must be drained first (the one that drains the reservoir). The others can be drained afterward in any order. I drained and re-installed the plugs one at a time since my drain pan isn’t large enough to cover all seven. Also, make sure the old crush washers are removed. Some of them were stuck to the engine block on mine. When re-installing drain plug, use a new crush washer and tighten to 30 lb-ft:

  1. Double-check that all drain plugs are tightened to 30 lb-ft. Then lower the car.
  2. Remove the oil filter with filter wrench and 22mm socket. Use the Form-A-Funnel, Acura tool, or just a bunch of rags and incontinence pads to prevent oil drips into the trunk and engine bay.


  1. Replace the oil filter element and O-rings.

  1. Install new oil filter and tighten to 18 lb-ft.
  2. Fill oil dispenser with 6.5L of engine oil and pour into engine.

  1. Check for leaks under car and around oil filter. Install oil filler cap and start engine.  Either warm up the car in garage or go for a drive to warm up the oil.  (Basically, go through the oil level check routine).
  2. After checking oil level, add oil to reach the max mark on the dipstick. I found 1L was enough to reach the max mark.
  3. Raise car and check for oil leaks. Re-install the splash shield, tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.
  4. Lower car. Re-install the filter access panel and tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.  Re-install the trunk trim (push clips in to install; no need to use screwdriver), and engine cover.
  5. Reset Maintenance minder.
  6. Go for a drive! Or sit back and have a well-deserved beer. (But not both.)