Checking Coolant Level

Just a quick tip on checking the car’s coolant level. While straightforward, it can be difficult actually seeing the coolant inside the tank, due to the tank’s opacity.

And for those who don’t know the location of the overflow tank, it is below the left (driver side) engine cover. Just pull it up and it will pop off.

You can try to transilluminate the tank, and that can work, but it is still difficult to see the coolant level.

A better way is to remove the cap and shine a flashlight into the tank. This obviously has to be done when the engine is cold.

The result is a much clearer view of the coolant level.

Twin Motor Unit Fluid Replacement

This is an easy DIY. You will spend more time removing and re-installing the underbody splash shield than replacing the fluid.


  • 3 bottles of DW-1 ATF
  • Two crush washers, Part # 94109-2000


  •  T30 Torx bit
  • 10mm socket
  • clip removal tool
  • 3/8″ square drive ratchet or breaker bar or impact wrench
  • Torque wrench
  • Drain pan, 1 gallon or larger
  • Fluid transfer pump, syringe, or other method of pumping fluid through fill hole. You can find these at most auto parts stores or Amazon.


  1. Raise car.
  2. Using T30 Torx bit, remove the corner air deflectors.

  1. Using T30 Torx, 10mm socket, and clip remover, remove the bolts and one clip holding the splash shield. Remove shield.

Once you’ve removed the shield, the TMU will be visible, as will the two plugs:

  1. Using 3/8″ square ratchet/breaker bar/impact wrench, remove the fill plug. (Always remove or at least loosen the fill plug before removing drain plug.)

  1. Place drain pan beneath TMU. Remove drain plug.

  1. Once fluid is drained, re-install drain plug using new washer. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
  2. Add DW-1 ATF through fill hole until fluid starts to dribble out (about 2.5L) using whatever device you have.

This is something I made a while ago, and uses compressed air.

Stop once fluid starts dribbling out the fill hole.

  1. Using new washer, re-install the fill plug. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
  2. Re-install the splash shield and air deflectors. Torque bolts to 7 lb-ft.


Oil Change Drip Tray and Filter Replacement

Content Credit: Eric Crowder

Make sure you have the “lip” of the tray pushed past the lip of the filter housing to avoid spills

It took a large amount of force to push the element into position, even with lubing all the rubber bits with new motor oil. Make sure this ridge is exposed or the element isn’t all the way pushed on

Total Sales By Color

US NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 18%
130R White 18%
Berlina Black 18%
Casino White Pearl 13%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 12%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 9%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%

Global NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 21%
130R White 19%
Casino White Pearl 15%
Berlina Black 14%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 11%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 7%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%

Car won’t go into drive. Same lights as thermostat.

Acura has noted that this is a known and documented issue internally but only have affected a very small amount of units, replacement part is same part #.

Issue: 3rd brake light shorted out causing the b5 fuse to blow which ties into the system that determines if your foot is on the brake or not. If this fuse goes out, you will be unable to crank the car. You can check to see if you’re experiencing the issue by simply checking to see if pressing the brake activates the 3rd brake light

Temporary solution: In the fuse box under the hood, use one of the spare fuses to get the car to crank(note: it may also blow that fuse so don’t shut the car off). This will at least prevent you from being stranded like I was.

Permanent resolution: Replace 3rd brake light unit and the b5 fuse.

Oil and Filter Change Procedure

Parts and supplies:

  • Approximately 8 litres of 0W-40 synthetic oil
  • Oil filter element kit: Acura part 15430-RSR-E01
  • Seven(7) Honda oil plug crush washers
  • Rags, shop towels, optional incontinence pads
  • Underbody clips: Acura part 91505-TY2-003 (if you break one during removal)


  • Oil filter wrench:  Acura part 07AAA-T6NA100 – I measured it and the internal diameter is 74mm, with 14 flutes, which is a common size so you might even have one already for another car.
  • 10mm, 17mm, and 22mm hex sockets
  • T30 torx bit
  • Slotted screwdriver, might also need a trim removal tool
  • Clip removal tool
  • Ratchets and extensions as necessary
  • Torque wrench(es) capable of measuring 7 lb-ft to 30 lb-ft
  • Pneumatic ratchet or cordless/corded drill highly recommended
  • Form-A-funnel (or designated Acura part 07AAZ-T6NA100)
  • Oil drain pan, 10L capacity
  • Oil dispensing container, 8L capacity (like this from Amazon Canada)


  1.  Remove passenger side engine cover, trunk carpet, and forward trunk trim.  To remove trunk trim clips, use slotted screwdriver to unscrew the trim clips.  DO NOT pull them out.  Sometimes they will not unscrew as they cannot engage the threads.  If this happens, use a trim removal tool to gently pull the clip while turning with the screwdriver.  This should allow them to engage the threads and be removed.

  1. Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the oil filter access panel.

  1. Optional: Drive the car to warm up the oil a bit.
  2. Remove the oil filler cap and raise the car.
  3. Using 10mm socket, T30 Torx, and clip removal tool, remove the engine underbody shield.  A pneumatic ratchet or cordless drill/bit driver really comes in handy here. Try not to break those damn plastic clips (part D in the diagram below):

  1. I removed the rear center metal panel in order to remove the splash shield (although in retrospect I could have just loosened the bolts).

  1. Using 17mm socket, remove drain plugs and drain the oil into the drain pan. There are a total of 7 drain plugs. Note that there is one plug that must be drained first (the one that drains the reservoir). The others can be drained afterward in any order. I drained and re-installed the plugs one at a time since my drain pan isn’t large enough to cover all seven. Also, make sure the old crush washers are removed. Some of them were stuck to the engine block on mine. When re-installing drain plug, use a new crush washer and tighten to 30 lb-ft:

  1. Double-check that all drain plugs are tightened to 30 lb-ft. Then lower the car.
  2. Remove the oil filter with filter wrench and 22mm socket. Use the Form-A-Funnel, Acura tool, or just a bunch of rags and incontinence pads to prevent oil drips into the trunk and engine bay.

  1. Replace the oil filter element and O-rings.

  1. Install new oil filter and tighten to 18 lb-ft.
  2. Fill oil dispenser with 6.5L of engine oil and pour into engine.

  1. Check for leaks under car and around oil filter. Install oil filler cap and start engine.  Either warm up the car in garage or go for a drive to warm up the oil.  (Basically, go through the oil level check routine).
  2. After checking oil level, add oil to reach the max mark on the dipstick. I found 1L was enough to reach the max mark.
  3. Raise car and check for oil leaks. Re-install the splash shield, tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.
  4. Lower car. Re-install the filter access panel and tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.  Re-install the trunk trim (push clips in to install; no need to use screwdriver), and engine cover.
  5. Reset Maintenance minder.
  6. Go for a drive! Or sit back and have a well-deserved beer. (But not both.)


Replacing Twin Motor Unit Fluid

The twin motor unit fluid is replaced by the maintenance minder’s interval (there isn’t a specific mileage because it is determined by use). The only fluid recommended to be changed based on time is engine oil (once a year, regardless of mileage) and brake fluid (every three years).

First maintenance codes after one year are AB6 . 6 = twin motors

Contributor: René Koos

Technical: Sound System

Report from the audio front lines…

1) The factory sub signal has a 50Hz low pass filter on it. Midbass information has to be recovered from the door speaker signals.

2) The amplifier has some kind of protection mode for the door speakers where it lowers the whole system volume upon the detection of sustained mid bass content.

3) The car is actually *too well sealed* to support the airflow requirements of an upsized subwoofer when the windows are up. The seals between the doors and the pillars, and other parts of the interior, are so good that the constant air pressure pushing back on the subwoofer is substantial. This may explain both the tuning of the factory sub, and the protection mode… pushing against high air pressure for sustained durations could cause amplifier overheat.

Stereo shop and system tuner (who have plenty of experience with other Honda/Acura systems including the ELS ones) were scratching their heads for a while until this picture all came together.

Contributor: ‎Ben Englert‎