Checking Coolant Level

Just a quick tip on checking the car’s coolant level. While straightforward, it can be difficult actually seeing the coolant inside the tank, due to the tank’s opacity.

And for those who don’t know the location of the overflow tank, it is below the left (driver side) engine cover. Just pull it up and it will pop off.

You can try to transilluminate the tank, and that can work, but it is still difficult to see the coolant level.

A better way is to remove the cap and shine a flashlight into the tank. This obviously has to be done when the engine is cold.

The result is a much clearer view of the coolant level.

Cabin Air Filter Replacement


Two filters – part # 80292-T6N-A01 x 2


  • JIS #1 and #2 screwdriver; I bought mine on Amazon. (You can use Phillips screwdrivers in a pinch, but run the risk of stripping screw heads. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.) All Hondas, and apparently most/all Japanese cars, use JIS screws instead of Phillips, so it’s worthwhile investing in the proper tools.
  • 8mm socket and driver/ratchet
  • Hook pick (optional but recommended)
  • Headlamp (optional but recommended) or other light source.


  1. Remove passenger dashboard undercover by removing 3 clips with JIS #1 driver.

Turn the centre of the clip a quarter-turn until it pops up, then pull out clip. If the entire clip turns, hold the outer edge with your other hand to keep it from turning.

  1. Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors on the right side of the Telematics Control Unit (arrow). Using JIS#2 driver, unscrew 3 screws securing the unit and remove.

  1. Use 8mm socket to remove the 4 bolts securing bottom of glovebox.

  1. Open glovebox and unscrew the 3 screws along top edge using JIS#1 driver.

There are 4 clips on the back of the glovebox holding it in place. Pull the glovebox out to disengage those clips. You can’t pull it out all the way: Note the USB port and the 2 switches on the left hand side of the glovebox. You will deal with those next.

  1. There are 4 electrical connectors on the back, corresponding to the USB port and switches. Disconnect them. Note which connector goes where (take photo for reference).

There is also a harness holder on the back right hand side of the glovebox that you need to unclip. It slides off, but the top of the clip really grips the tab on the glovebox. I used a hook pick to lift the top part. It slid off easily after that.

  1. The glovebox should now slide out.
  2. The right filter cover is visible, but the left is blocked by the Climate Control Unit.

Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors (arrows). Using JIS#2, remove the 2 circled screws. Remove unit.

  1. You have FINALLY reached the filters! Remove the 2 covers by pressing the tab on the right side of the cover (arrow), then swinging it out to unhook the left side of the cover.

The two filters are exposed. Note the airflow direction on them (arrow should point down).

Remove and replace with new filters, making sure they are oriented properly. Those old filters were in the car for 3 years and 20k miles. They were definitely in need of replacement.

  1. Re-install everything in reverse order: Filter covers, CCU, glovebox connectors and harness clip, glovebox, TCU, dashboard undercover.

When re-attaching the undercover, note that there are two studs that go into the two holes at the back of the cover.

  1. Check that the rear trunk button and door handle pop out still work. Also ensure that USB port works.

Twin Motor Unit Fluid Replacement

This is an easy DIY. You will spend more time removing and re-installing the underbody splash shield than replacing the fluid.


  • 3 bottles of DW-1 ATF
  • Two crush washers, Part # 94109-2000


  •  T30 Torx bit
  • 10mm socket
  • clip removal tool
  • 3/8″ square drive ratchet or breaker bar or impact wrench
  • Torque wrench
  • Drain pan, 1 gallon or larger
  • Fluid transfer pump, syringe, or other method of pumping fluid through fill hole. You can find these at most auto parts stores or Amazon.


  1. Raise car.
  2. Using T30 Torx bit, remove the corner air deflectors.

  1. Using T30 Torx, 10mm socket, and clip remover, remove the bolts and one clip holding the splash shield. Remove shield.

Once you’ve removed the shield, the TMU will be visible, as will the two plugs:

  1. Using 3/8″ square ratchet/breaker bar/impact wrench, remove the fill plug. (Always remove or at least loosen the fill plug before removing drain plug.)

  1. Place drain pan beneath TMU. Remove drain plug.

  1. Once fluid is drained, re-install drain plug using new washer. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
  2. Add DW-1 ATF through fill hole until fluid starts to dribble out (about 2.5L) using whatever device you have.

This is something I made a while ago, and uses compressed air.

Stop once fluid starts dribbling out the fill hole.

  1. Using new washer, re-install the fill plug. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
  2. Re-install the splash shield and air deflectors. Torque bolts to 7 lb-ft.


Oil and Filter Change Procedure

Parts and supplies:

  • Approximately 8 litres of 0W-40 synthetic oil
  • Oil filter element kit: Acura part 15430-RSR-E01
  • Seven(7) Honda oil plug crush washers
  • Rags, shop towels, optional incontinence pads
  • Underbody clips: Acura part 91505-TY2-003 (if you break one during removal)


  • Oil filter wrench:  Acura part 07AAA-T6NA100 – I measured it and the internal diameter is 74mm, with 14 flutes, which is a common size so you might even have one already for another car.
  • 10mm, 17mm, and 22mm hex sockets
  • T30 torx bit
  • Slotted screwdriver, might also need a trim removal tool
  • Clip removal tool
  • Ratchets and extensions as necessary
  • Torque wrench(es) capable of measuring 7 lb-ft to 30 lb-ft
  • Pneumatic ratchet or cordless/corded drill highly recommended
  • Form-A-funnel (or designated Acura part 07AAZ-T6NA100)
  • Oil drain pan, 10L capacity
  • Oil dispensing container, 8L capacity (like this from Amazon Canada)


  1.  Remove passenger side engine cover, trunk carpet, and forward trunk trim.  To remove trunk trim clips, use slotted screwdriver to unscrew the trim clips.  DO NOT pull them out.  Sometimes they will not unscrew as they cannot engage the threads.  If this happens, use a trim removal tool to gently pull the clip while turning with the screwdriver.  This should allow them to engage the threads and be removed.

  1. Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the oil filter access panel.

  1. Optional: Drive the car to warm up the oil a bit.
  2. Remove the oil filler cap and raise the car.
  3. Using 10mm socket, T30 Torx, and clip removal tool, remove the engine underbody shield.  A pneumatic ratchet or cordless drill/bit driver really comes in handy here. Try not to break those damn plastic clips (part D in the diagram below):

  1. I removed the rear center metal panel in order to remove the splash shield (although in retrospect I could have just loosened the bolts).

  1. Using 17mm socket, remove drain plugs and drain the oil into the drain pan. There are a total of 7 drain plugs. Note that there is one plug that must be drained first (the one that drains the reservoir). The others can be drained afterward in any order. I drained and re-installed the plugs one at a time since my drain pan isn’t large enough to cover all seven. Also, make sure the old crush washers are removed. Some of them were stuck to the engine block on mine. When re-installing drain plug, use a new crush washer and tighten to 30 lb-ft:

  1. Double-check that all drain plugs are tightened to 30 lb-ft. Then lower the car.
  2. Remove the oil filter with filter wrench and 22mm socket. Use the Form-A-Funnel, Acura tool, or just a bunch of rags and incontinence pads to prevent oil drips into the trunk and engine bay.

  1. Replace the oil filter element and O-rings.

  1. Install new oil filter and tighten to 18 lb-ft.
  2. Fill oil dispenser with 6.5L of engine oil and pour into engine.

  1. Check for leaks under car and around oil filter. Install oil filler cap and start engine.  Either warm up the car in garage or go for a drive to warm up the oil.  (Basically, go through the oil level check routine).
  2. After checking oil level, add oil to reach the max mark on the dipstick. I found 1L was enough to reach the max mark.
  3. Raise car and check for oil leaks. Re-install the splash shield, tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.
  4. Lower car. Re-install the filter access panel and tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.  Re-install the trunk trim (push clips in to install; no need to use screwdriver), and engine cover.
  5. Reset Maintenance minder.
  6. Go for a drive! Or sit back and have a well-deserved beer. (But not both.)


TPMS Sensor Learning/Re-Learning

According to an Acura Wheel Installation information sheet, the procedure to sync the TPMS sensors to the car is straightforward:

Drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds at a speed
of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all sensor IDs will
be memorized automatically.

It is unclear at this time how many times this can be repeated, but it has been used to successfully re-learn a new set of wheels by one owner already.  So far, this only applies to the OEM wheels and TPMS sensors.

Identification Numbers

There are several numbers that will identify your NSX.  The most well-known is the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).  In addition, there are identification numbers for the engine, the three electric motors, and the transmission.  There is also a special Serial Number unique to each car.


The VIN is located in three areas:  The base of the windshield on the driver’s side, on the floor behind the passenger seat, and on the certification label in the driver’s side door jamb.

The VIN is a unique, standardized code that identifies each vehicle.  The format can vary depending on country.

Using mine as an example, here is what it can tell you:

19U NC1B0 9 H Y 800116

First three characters represents the World Manufacturer Identifier, in this case 19U represents Acura.  In addition, the first character indicates country of manufacture, in this case 1 is the United States.

The next five characters is the vehicle description.  NC1 is the chassis code of the second generation NSX.

The ninth character is a check digit.

The tenth character is the model year.  H=2017, J=2018, K=2019, L=2020.  Note that the letters ‘I’, ‘O’, and ‘Q’ are not used in the VIN.  In addition, the letters ‘U’, ‘Z’ and number ‘0’ are not used for the year digit.

The eleventh character is the plant code.  Y presumably represents the Performance Manufacturing Center.

The last 6 characters is the sequential number.  Canadian market cars start with 8, while US market cars start with 0.  In this case, this is the 116th car built for the Canadian market for model year 2017.

Serial Number

The serial number is located on the rear engine cover.  Every new NSX has a unique serial number based on build order regardless of market, which allows the owner to know exactly when in the build sequence his or her car was built.  So, for example, a serial number of 100 indicates it was the 100th vehicle to be built. Unlike the sequential portion of the VIN, it does not reset each year and does not repeat. The serial number will be continuous until production of the current generation ends. Except for the very early builds, the sequential portion of the VIN and the serial number most likely won’t match.

Engine/Transmission/Motor Numbers

These are located in the following areas:

Certification Label

Located in the driver’s side door jamb, it contains some useful information.  In addition to the VIN, it also shows the vehicle’s build date and paint code.

Paint Codes

  • 130R White:  NH-854
  • Casino White Pearl:  NH-839P
  • Source Silver Metallic:  NH-837M
  • Valencia Red Pearl:  R-556P
  • Curva Red:  R-559
  • Nord Grey Metallic:  G-544M
  • Nouvelle Blue Pearl:  B-605P
  • Berlina Black:  NH-547

The paint code on the certification label may also have an extra suffix that indicates the interior color:

  • Ebony (black):  No suffix
  • Red:  X
  • Orchid (Seacoast in Canada):  V
  • Saddle:  Z