Oil Change Drip Tray and Filter Replacement

Content Credit: Eric Crowder

Make sure you have the “lip” of the tray pushed past the lip of the filter housing to avoid spills

It took a large amount of force to push the element into position, even with lubing all the rubber bits with new motor oil. Make sure this ridge is exposed or the element isn’t all the way pushed on

Total Sales By Color

US NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 18%
130R White 18%
Berlina Black 18%
Casino White Pearl 13%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 12%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 9%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%

Global NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 21%
130R White 19%
Casino White Pearl 15%
Berlina Black 14%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 11%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 7%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%

Car won’t go into drive. Same lights as thermostat.

Acura has noted that this is a known and documented issue internally but only have affected a very small amount of units, replacement part is same part #.

Issue: 3rd brake light shorted out causing the b5 fuse to blow which ties into the system that determines if your foot is on the brake or not. If this fuse goes out, you will be unable to crank the car. You can check to see if you’re experiencing the issue by simply checking to see if pressing the brake activates the 3rd brake light

Temporary solution: In the fuse box under the hood, use one of the spare fuses to get the car to crank(note: it may also blow that fuse so don’t shut the car off). This will at least prevent you from being stranded like I was.

Permanent resolution: Replace 3rd brake light unit and the b5 fuse.

Oil and Filter Change Procedure

Parts and supplies:

  • Two 4.4L jugs of 0W-40 synthetic oil
  • Oil filter element kit: Acura part 15430-RSR-E01
  • Seven(7) Honda oil plug crush washers
  • Rags, shop towels, optional incontinence pads
  • Underbody clips: Acura part 91505-TY2-003 (if you break one during removal)

 Tools:

  • Oil filter wrench:  Acura part 07AAA-T6NA100 – I measured it and the internal diameter is 74mm, with 14 flutes, which is a common size so you might even have one already for another car.
  • 10mm, 17mm, and 22mm hex sockets
  • T30 torx bit
  • Slotted screwdriver, might also need a trim removal tool
  • Clip removal tool
  • Ratchets and extensions as necessary
  • Torque wrench(es) capable of measuring 7 lb-ft to 30 lb-ft
  • Pneumatic ratchet or cordless/corded drill highly recommended
  • Form-A-funnel (or designated Acura part 07AAZ-T6NA100)
  • Oil drain pan, 10L capacity
  • Oil dispensing container, 8L capacity (like this from Amazon Canada)

Procedure:

  1.  Remove passenger side engine cover, trunk carpet, and forward trunk trim.  To remove trunk trim clips, use slotted screwdriver to unscrew the trim clips.  DO NOT pull them out.  Sometimes they will not unscrew as they cannot engage the threads.  If this happens, use a trim removal tool to gently pull the clip while turning with the screwdriver.  This should allow them to engage the threads and be removed.

  1. Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the oil filter access panel.

  1. Optional: Drive the car to warm up the oil a bit.
  2. Remove the oil filler cap and raise the car.
  3. Using 10mm socket, T30 Torx, and clip removal tool, remove the engine underbody shield.  A pneumatic ratchet or cordless drill/bit driver really comes in handy here. Try not to break those damn plastic clips (part D in the diagram below):

  1. I removed the rear center metal panel in order to remove the splash shield (although in retrospect I could have just loosened the bolts).

  1. Using 17mm socket, remove drain plugs and drain the oil into the drain pan. There are a total of 7 drain plugs. Note that there is one plug that must be drained first (the one that drains the reservoir). The others can be drained afterward in any order. I drained and re-installed the plugs one at a time since my drain pan isn’t large enough to cover all seven. Also, make sure the old crush washers are removed. Some of them were stuck to the engine block on mine. When re-installing drain plug, use a new crush washer and tighten to 30 lb-ft:

  1. Double-check that all drain plugs are tightened to 30 lb-ft. Then lower the car.
  2. Remove the oil filter with filter wrench and 22mm socket. Use the Form-A-Funnel, Acura tool, or just a bunch of rags and incontinence pads to prevent oil drips into the trunk and engine bay.


  1. Replace the oil filter element and O-rings.

  1. Install new oil filter and tighten to 18 lb-ft.
  2. Fill oil dispenser with 6.5L of engine oil and pour into engine.

  1. Check for leaks under car and around oil filter. Install oil filler cap and start engine.  Either warm up the car in garage or go for a drive to warm up the oil.  (Basically, go through the oil level check routine).
  2. After checking oil level, add oil to reach the max mark on the dipstick. I found 1L was enough to reach the max mark.
  3. Raise car and check for oil leaks. Re-install the splash shield, tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.
  4. Lower car. Re-install the filter access panel and tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.  Re-install the trunk trim (push clips in to install; no need to use screwdriver), and engine cover.
  5. Reset Maintenance minder.
  6. Go for a drive! Or sit back and have a well-deserved beer. (But not both.)

 

Replacing Twin Motor Unit Fluid

The twin motor unit fluid is replaced by the maintenance minder’s interval (there isn’t a specific mileage because it is determined by use). The only fluid recommended to be changed based on time is engine oil (once a year, regardless of mileage) and brake fluid (every three years).

First maintenance codes after one year are AB6 . 6 = twin motors

Contributor: René Koos

Technical: Sound System

Report from the audio front lines…

1) The factory sub signal has a 50Hz low pass filter on it. Midbass information has to be recovered from the door speaker signals.

2) The amplifier has some kind of protection mode for the door speakers where it lowers the whole system volume upon the detection of sustained mid bass content.

3) The car is actually *too well sealed* to support the airflow requirements of an upsized subwoofer when the windows are up. The seals between the doors and the pillars, and other parts of the interior, are so good that the constant air pressure pushing back on the subwoofer is substantial. This may explain both the tuning of the factory sub, and the protection mode… pushing against high air pressure for sustained durations could cause amplifier overheat.

Stereo shop and system tuner (who have plenty of experience with other Honda/Acura systems including the ELS ones) were scratching their heads for a while until this picture all came together.

Contributor: ‎Ben Englert‎

Track Day experience & feedback

Every wonder what the car really does “on track”?  I  did?

Update this post with 2nd track event data

181001 NSXPO HPDE Track Test Days at Thunderhill

First Test Day

161231 Summary of Track Test Day at Thunderhill

 

 

 

We read how fast everyone is or how great the NSX performs on track, but yet there seems to be little empirical data to help those of us that would like to do this optimize the experience.

I wish we could generate a database.

I’ve found minimum information to optimize the NSX experience… to get the most out of the car. I raced in SCCA prototype classes for over 25 years. I’ve was fortunate to race at every major road course in the US that existed before 2005. I’ve track tested a couple thousand miles & raced 300+ events.  I know how to optimize on track performance. Three key things: It takes time, and money, and equipment.

I track tested the NSX one time, 12/31/2016. I had a great time. I had never drive a 600HP/4000lb street machine on track. It’s addictive. It also uses up equipment at a 10:1 or 20:1 ratio to driving around on the streets. I no longer have the tools or equipment  or resources (people & equipment) to go track testing in earnest… think I would like to but know I won’t.

Some lessons learned:

Brakes – CF brake pad monitoring & maintenance – Extremely important. (I would go through a set in a 2 day, 6-8 session track weekend – 150-200 miles.) Rear brake pad taper is a big problem. I think they are undersized, and lack sufficient cooling!  Wish I didn’t have CF for this function – not an option at time of my purchase.

Gas-Always start a session with more than a 1/2 tank of gas. I didn’t, and ran out – not a fun experience.

Tires – Stock Conti’s seemed to work quite well, in spite of what you read. Yes, I believe there is multiple seconds to be gained with other choices… probably ending up with a sticky set of Hoosiers on 19″ rims… The point is you can track your car and really enjoy the day, without the Oooie Goooie stickiest tires available.

Tire Pressures & wear – Measure your TP’s before your go out, and measure ASAP when you come off track. I picked up 11 PSI from cold to hot. I ran 41 PSI hot and the tires looked pretty good. Feel the cross section tire temp. (A tire pyrometer would be the best. An IR gun will give you a relative reading by surfaces cool rapidly.) Inspect your tire wear.  It will tell you a lot. (And the outside edge will see the most abuse.) My Conti’s held up very well on my 1 track day.

Trunk – Take every out, even the Styrofoam  container… It will melt.

Consumables – If you go for a weekend track testing in earnest, count on a $1200 set of CF pads, and a new set of tires, if you go really fast.  You don’t have to, & 9/10ths is still really fun! Who cares anyway. It isn’t set up in GT-3 Trim and you most likely don’t have a crew of 10 to take care of it all weekend…

Just go have fun.

And it would be really great to get a collection of “data points” so that  when we have a chance to “track” out NSX, we can start with the right settings for the best experience. We can learn from each other!

I’ve attached my “Track Day Summary”

Initial Track Day NOtes 12/31/2016

Summary of Track Test Day at Thunderhill Raceway Park December 31 – Copy