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2017-22 Maintenance Schedule

Note: the service minder on the dashboard indicates engine oil life, as well as the required main (A or B) and sub-service items (1-6) required.  A service schedule is also included below, which can be used for reference.

Maintenance Main Items (A-B)

If a maintenance minder indicator does not appear more than 12 months after the display is reset, change the engine oil every year.
NOTE:
Independent of the maintenance messages in the multi-information display, replace the brake fluid every 3 years.
Inspect idle speed every 160,000 miles (256,000 km).
Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy.
Inspect DI+PI fuel system every 3 years or service item B is indicated.
Inspect tire condition every 3,100 miles (5,000 km).

Symbol
Maintenance Main Items
A
Replace engine oil
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Engine oil capacity without oil filter: 7.3 L (7.7 US qt)
B
Replace engine oil and oil filter
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Engine oil capacity with oil filter: 7.9 L (8.3 US qt)
Inspect front and rear brakes
Check pads and discs for wear (thickness), damage, and cracks.
Check calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness of mounting bolts.
Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
Check steering linkage.
Check boots for damage and leaking grease.
Inspect suspension components
Check bolts for tightness.
Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.
Inspect driveshaft boots
－
Check boots for cracks and boot bands for tightness.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including VSA lines)
－
Check master cylinder and VSA modulator-control unit for damage and leakage.
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
Inspect exhaust system
－
Check catalytic converter heat shields, exhaust pipes, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.
Inspect fuel lines and connections
－
Check for loose connections, cracks, and deterioration; retighten loose connections and replace damaged parts.
Inspect DI+PI fuel system
－
Do the inspection in Forced PI Idling Mode.
Check expiration date for temporary tire repair kit bottle

Maintenance Sub Items (1-6)

If a maintenance minder indicator does not appear more than 12 months after the display is reset, change the engine oil every year.
NOTE:
Independent of the maintenance messages in the multi-information display, replace the brake fluid every 3 years.
Inspect idle speed every 160,000 miles (256,000 km).
Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy.
Inspect DI+PI fuel system every 3 years or service item B is indicated.
Inspect tire condition every 3,100 miles (5,000 km).
Number
Maintenance Sub Items
1
Inspect tire condition
－
Check tire inflation and condition at least once per month.
2
Replace air cleaner element
－
If the vehicle is driven primarily in dusty conditions, replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
Replace dust and pollen filter
Replace filter whenever airflow from the heating and air conditioning system is less than normal.
If the vehicle is driven mostly in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the air from industry and from diesel-powered vehicles, replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
3
Replace transmission fluid and clutch fluid (transmission side)
Driving in mountainous areas at very low vehicle speeds results in higher transmission temperatures. This requires transmission fluid and clutch fluid (transmission side) change more frequently than recommended by the Maintenance Minder. If the vehicle is regularly driven under these conditions, change the transmission fluid and clutch fluid (transmission side) every 20,000 miles (32,000 km).
Use Acura Gear Oil GO-Type 2 for transmission fluid.
－
Capacity: 4.6 L (4.9 US qt)
Use Acura ATF DW-1 for clutch fluid (transmission side).
－
Capacity: 2.6 L (2.7 US qt)
4
Replace spark plugs
Inspect valve clearance (cold)
Intake: 0.18－0.22 mm (0.008 in)
Exhaust: 0.23－0.27 mm (0.010 in)
Inspect Active Exhaust valve function
Replace Intake Sound Control
－
Do the replacement of sound creator.
5
Replace engine coolant
Use Acura Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2, and if necessary add Honda Extreme Cold Weather Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (concentrate) as needed for prolonged cold temperatures below -22 °F (-30 °C).
Capacity (including expansion tank): 15.5 L (4.09 US gal)
6
Replace twin motor unit fluid
Driving in mountainous areas at very low vehicle speeds results in higher level of mechanical (shear) stress to fluid. This requires twin motor unit fluid changes more frequently than recommended by the Maintenance Minder. If the vehicle is regularly driven under these conditions, change the twin motor unit fluid at 7,500 miles (12,000 km), then every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
Use Acura ATF DW-1.
Capacity: 2.42 L (2.56 US qt)

Maintenance Schedule

This maintenance schedule outlines the minimum required maintenance that you should perform to ensure the trouble-free operation of the vehicle. Due to regional and climatic differences, some additional servicing may be required. Please consult the warranty booklet for a more detailed description.
NOTE: The following items must be used for “severe condition” indicated on schedule
Engine oil and oil filter: A/B/C/D/E
Transmission fluid, clutch fluid: B/D
Twin motor unit fluid: D
Severe driving conditions:
A.
Driving less than 8 km per trip or, in freezing temperatures, driving less than 16 km per trip.
B.
Driving in extremely hot above 35 °C conditions.
C.
Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving.
D.
Driving in mountainous conditions.
E.
Driving on muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.
Service at the indicated distance or time whichever comes first
x 1,000 km
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
months
12
24
36
48
60
72
84
96
108
120
Replace engine oil
When the notice of Engine Oil Monitor is displayed or 1 year has passed from the last replacement.
Replace engine oil filter
When the notice of Engine Oil Monitor is displayed or 2 years has passed from the last replacement.
Replace air cleaner element
Every 25,000 km
Inspect valve clearance
Every 40,000 km
Replace fuel filter
－
Replace fuel filter every 40,000 km or 2 years, if the fuel the client uses is suspected to be contaminated with dust, etc. because the filter may be clogged sooner.
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Replace spark plugs
Every 100,000 km
Inspect idle speed
●
Replace engine coolant
－
Use Acura Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2, and if necessary add Honda Extreme Cold Weather Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (concentrate) as needed for prolonged cold temperatures below -30 °C.
At 200,000 km or 10 years, thereafter every 100,000 km or 5 years
Inspect DI+PI fuel system
－
Do the inspection in Forced PI Idling Mode.
Every 30,000 km or 3 years
Replace transmission fluid
－
Use Acura Gear Oil GO-Type 2.
Normal condition
●
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Severe condition
Every 30,000 km
Replace clutch fluid
－
Use Acura ATF DW-1.
Normal condition
●
●
●
●
Severe condition
Every 30,000 km
Replace twin motor unit fluid
－
Use Acura ATF DW-1.
Normal condition
●
●
●
●
●
Severe condition
●
●
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Replace Intake Sound Control
－
Do the replacement of sound creator.
Every 170,000 km or 10 years
Inspect Active Exhaust Valve function
Every 100,000 km
Inspect front and rear brakes
Check brake pad and disc thickness. Check for damage and cracks.
Check brake calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness.
Every 10,000 km or 6 months
Replace brake fluid
Use only DOT 4 brake fluid.
We recommend Acura Brake Fluid.
Check brake fluid level is between upper and lower marks on reservoir.
Every 3 years
Replace dust and pollen filter
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Check expiration date for temporary tire repair kit bottle
Every year
Inspect tire condition
－
Check tire inflation and condition at least once per month.
Every 5,000 km or 6 months
Visually inspect the following items:
Check for correct installation and position, check for cracks, deterioration, rust, and leaks.
Check tightness of screws, nuts, and joints. If necessary, retighten.
Tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, boots
Check steering linkage.
Check boots for damage and leaking grease.
Every 10,000 km or 6 months
Suspension components
Check bolts for tightness.
Check all dust covers for deterioration and damage.
Driveshaft boots
Check boots and boot bands for cracks.
Check boots for leaking grease.
Brake hoses and lines (including VSA lines)
－
Check master cylinder and VSA modulator-control unit for damage and leakage.
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Checking Coolant Level

Just a quick tip on checking the car’s coolant level. While straightforward, it can be difficult actually seeing the coolant inside the tank, due to the tank’s opacity.

And for those who don’t know the location of the overflow tank, it is below the left (driver side) engine cover. Just pull it up and it will pop off.

You can try to transilluminate the tank, and that can work, but it is still difficult to see the coolant level.

A better way is to remove the cap and shine a flashlight into the tank. This obviously has to be done when the engine is cold.

The result is a much clearer view of the coolant level.

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Cabin Air Filter Replacement

Parts:

Two filters – part # 80292-T6N-A01 x 2

Tools:

  • JIS #1 and #2 screwdriver; I bought mine on Amazon. (You can use Phillips screwdrivers in a pinch, but run the risk of stripping screw heads. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.) All Hondas, and apparently most/all Japanese cars, use JIS screws instead of Phillips, so it’s worthwhile investing in the proper tools.
  • 8mm socket and driver/ratchet
  • Hook pick (optional but recommended)
  • Headlamp (optional but recommended) or other light source.

Procedure:

  1. Remove passenger dashboard undercover by removing 3 clips with JIS #1 driver.

Turn the centre of the clip a quarter-turn until it pops up, then pull out clip. If the entire clip turns, hold the outer edge with your other hand to keep it from turning.

  1. Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors on the right side of the Telematics Control Unit (arrow). Using JIS#2 driver, unscrew 3 screws securing the unit and remove.

  1. Use 8mm socket to remove the 4 bolts securing bottom of glovebox.

  1. Open glovebox and unscrew the 3 screws along top edge using JIS#1 driver.

There are 4 clips on the back of the glovebox holding it in place. Pull the glovebox out to disengage those clips. You can’t pull it out all the way: Note the USB port and the 2 switches on the left hand side of the glovebox. You will deal with those next.

  1. There are 4 electrical connectors on the back, corresponding to the USB port and switches. Disconnect them. Note which connector goes where (take photo for reference).

There is also a harness holder on the back right hand side of the glovebox that you need to unclip. It slides off, but the top of the clip really grips the tab on the glovebox. I used a hook pick to lift the top part. It slid off easily after that.

  1. The glovebox should now slide out.
  2. The right filter cover is visible, but the left is blocked by the Climate Control Unit.

Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors (arrows). Using JIS#2, remove the 2 circled screws. Remove unit.

  1. You have FINALLY reached the filters! Remove the 2 covers by pressing the tab on the right side of the cover (arrow), then swinging it out to unhook the left side of the cover.

The two filters are exposed. Note the airflow direction on them (arrow should point down).

Remove and replace with new filters, making sure they are oriented properly. Those old filters were in the car for 3 years and 20k miles. They were definitely in need of replacement.

  1. Re-install everything in reverse order: Filter covers, CCU, glovebox connectors and harness clip, glovebox, TCU, dashboard undercover.

When re-attaching the undercover, note that there are two studs that go into the two holes at the back of the cover.

  1. Check that the rear trunk button and door handle pop out still work. Also ensure that USB port works.
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Twin Motor Unit Fluid Replacement

This is an easy DIY. You will spend more time removing and re-installing the underbody splash shield than replacing the fluid.

Parts:

  • 3 bottles of DW-1 ATF
  • Two crush washers, Part # 94109-2000

Tools:

  •  T30 Torx bit
  • 10mm socket
  • clip removal tool
  • 3/8″ square drive ratchet or breaker bar or impact wrench
  • Torque wrench
  • Drain pan, 1 gallon or larger
  • Fluid transfer pump, syringe, or other method of pumping fluid through fill hole. You can find these at most auto parts stores or Amazon.

Procedure:

  1. Raise car.
  2. Using T30 Torx bit, remove the corner air deflectors.

  1. Using T30 Torx, 10mm socket, and clip remover, remove the bolts and one clip holding the splash shield. Remove shield.


Once you’ve removed the shield, the TMU will be visible, as will the two plugs:

  1. Using 3/8″ square ratchet/breaker bar/impact wrench, remove the fill plug. (Always remove or at least loosen the fill plug before removing drain plug.)

  1. Place drain pan beneath TMU. Remove drain plug.

  1. Once fluid is drained, re-install drain plug using new washer. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
  2. Add DW-1 ATF through fill hole until fluid starts to dribble out (about 2.5L) using whatever device you have.

This is something I made a while ago, and uses compressed air.

Stop once fluid starts dribbling out the fill hole.

  1. Using new washer, re-install the fill plug. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
  2. Re-install the splash shield and air deflectors. Torque bolts to 7 lb-ft.

 

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Oil Change Drip Tray and Filter Replacement

Content Credit: Eric Crowder

Make sure you have the “lip” of the tray pushed past the lip of the filter housing to avoid spills

It took a large amount of force to push the element into position, even with lubing all the rubber bits with new motor oil. Make sure this ridge is exposed or the element isn’t all the way pushed on

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Total Sales By Color

US NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 18%
130R White 18%
Berlina Black 18%
Casino White Pearl 13%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 12%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 9%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%

Global NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 21%
130R White 19%
Casino White Pearl 15%
Berlina Black 14%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 11%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 7%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%

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Car won’t go into drive. Same lights as thermostat.

Acura has noted that this is a known and documented issue internally but only have affected a very small amount of units, replacement part is same part #.

Issue: 3rd brake light shorted out causing the b5 fuse to blow which ties into the system that determines if your foot is on the brake or not. If this fuse goes out, you will be unable to crank the car. You can check to see if you’re experiencing the issue by simply checking to see if pressing the brake activates the 3rd brake light

Temporary solution: In the fuse box under the hood, use one of the spare fuses to get the car to crank(note: it may also blow that fuse so don’t shut the car off). This will at least prevent you from being stranded like I was.

Permanent resolution: Replace 3rd brake light unit and the b5 fuse.

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Oil and Filter Change Procedure

Parts and supplies:

  • Approximately 8 litres of 0W-40 synthetic oil
  • Oil filter element kit: Acura part 15430-RSR-E01
  • Seven(7) Honda oil plug crush washers
  • Rags, shop towels, optional incontinence pads
  • Underbody clips: Acura part 91505-TY2-003 (if you break one during removal)

 Tools:

  • Oil filter wrench:  Acura part 07AAA-T6NA100 – I measured it and the internal diameter is 74mm, with 14 flutes, which is a common size so you might even have one already for another car.
  • 10mm, 17mm, and 22mm hex sockets
  • T30 torx bit
  • Slotted screwdriver, might also need a trim removal tool
  • Clip removal tool
  • Ratchets and extensions as necessary
  • Torque wrench(es) capable of measuring 7 lb-ft to 30 lb-ft
  • Pneumatic ratchet or cordless/corded drill highly recommended
  • Form-A-funnel (or designated Acura part 07AAZ-T6NA100)
  • Oil drain pan, 10L capacity
  • Oil dispensing container, 8L capacity (like this from Amazon Canada)

Procedure:

  1.  Remove passenger side engine cover, trunk carpet, and forward trunk trim.  To remove trunk trim clips, use slotted screwdriver to unscrew the trim clips.  DO NOT pull them out.  Sometimes they will not unscrew as they cannot engage the threads.  If this happens, use a trim removal tool to gently pull the clip while turning with the screwdriver.  This should allow them to engage the threads and be removed.

  1. Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the oil filter access panel.

  1. Optional: Drive the car to warm up the oil a bit.
  2. Remove the oil filler cap and raise the car.
  3. Using 10mm socket, T30 Torx, and clip removal tool, remove the engine underbody shield.  A pneumatic ratchet or cordless drill/bit driver really comes in handy here. Try not to break those damn plastic clips (part D in the diagram below):

  1. I removed the rear center metal panel in order to remove the splash shield (although in retrospect I could have just loosened the bolts).

  1. Using 17mm socket, remove drain plugs and drain the oil into the drain pan. There are a total of 7 drain plugs. Note that there is one plug that must be drained first (the one that drains the reservoir). The others can be drained afterward in any order. I drained and re-installed the plugs one at a time since my drain pan isn’t large enough to cover all seven. Also, make sure the old crush washers are removed. Some of them were stuck to the engine block on mine. When re-installing drain plug, use a new crush washer and tighten to 30 lb-ft:

  1. Double-check that all drain plugs are tightened to 30 lb-ft. Then lower the car.
  2. Remove the oil filter with filter wrench and 22mm socket. Use the Form-A-Funnel, Acura tool, or just a bunch of rags and incontinence pads to prevent oil drips into the trunk and engine bay.


  1. Replace the oil filter element and O-rings.

  1. Install new oil filter and tighten to 18 lb-ft.
  2. Fill oil dispenser with 6.5L of engine oil and pour into engine.

  1. Check for leaks under car and around oil filter. Install oil filler cap and start engine.  Either warm up the car in garage or go for a drive to warm up the oil.  (Basically, go through the oil level check routine).
  2. After checking oil level, add oil to reach the max mark on the dipstick. I found 1L was enough to reach the max mark.
  3. Raise car and check for oil leaks. Re-install the splash shield, tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.
  4. Lower car. Re-install the filter access panel and tighten bolts to 7 lb-ft.  Re-install the trunk trim (push clips in to install; no need to use screwdriver), and engine cover.
  5. Reset Maintenance minder.
  6. Go for a drive! Or sit back and have a well-deserved beer. (But not both.)