Two filters – part # 80292-T6N-A01 x 2
- JIS #1 and #2 screwdriver; I bought mine on Amazon. (You can use Phillips screwdrivers in a pinch, but run the risk of stripping screw heads. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.) All Hondas, and apparently most/all Japanese cars, use JIS screws instead of Phillips, so it’s worthwhile investing in the proper tools.
- 8mm socket and driver/ratchet
- Hook pick (optional but recommended)
- Headlamp (optional but recommended) or other light source.
- Remove passenger dashboard undercover by removing 3 clips with JIS #1 driver.
Turn the centre of the clip a quarter-turn until it pops up, then pull out clip. If the entire clip turns, hold the outer edge with your other hand to keep it from turning.
- Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors on the right side of the Telematics Control Unit (arrow). Using JIS#2 driver, unscrew 3 screws securing the unit and remove.
- Use 8mm socket to remove the 4 bolts securing bottom of glovebox.
- Open glovebox and unscrew the 3 screws along top edge using JIS#1 driver.
There are 4 clips on the back of the glovebox holding it in place. Pull the glovebox out to disengage those clips. You can’t pull it out all the way: Note the USB port and the 2 switches on the left hand side of the glovebox. You will deal with those next.
- There are 4 electrical connectors on the back, corresponding to the USB port and switches. Disconnect them. Note which connector goes where (take photo for reference).
There is also a harness holder on the back right hand side of the glovebox that you need to unclip. It slides off, but the top of the clip really grips the tab on the glovebox. I used a hook pick to lift the top part. It slid off easily after that.
- The glovebox should now slide out.
- The right filter cover is visible, but the left is blocked by the Climate Control Unit.
Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors (arrows). Using JIS#2, remove the 2 circled screws. Remove unit.
- You have FINALLY reached the filters! Remove the 2 covers by pressing the tab on the right side of the cover (arrow), then swinging it out to unhook the left side of the cover.
The two filters are exposed. Note the airflow direction on them (arrow should point down).
Remove and replace with new filters, making sure they are oriented properly. Those old filters were in the car for 3 years and 20k miles. They were definitely in need of replacement.
- Re-install everything in reverse order: Filter covers, CCU, glovebox connectors and harness clip, glovebox, TCU, dashboard undercover.
When re-attaching the undercover, note that there are two studs that go into the two holes at the back of the cover.
- Check that the rear trunk button and door handle pop out still work. Also ensure that USB port works.
This is an easy DIY. You will spend more time removing and re-installing the underbody splash shield than replacing the fluid.
- 3 bottles of DW-1 ATF
- Two crush washers, Part # 94109-2000
- T30 Torx bit
- 10mm socket
- clip removal tool
- 3/8″ square drive ratchet or breaker bar or impact wrench
- Torque wrench
- Drain pan, 1 gallon or larger
- Fluid transfer pump, syringe, or other method of pumping fluid through fill hole. You can find these at most auto parts stores or Amazon.
- Raise car.
- Using T30 Torx bit, remove the corner air deflectors.
- Using T30 Torx, 10mm socket, and clip remover, remove the bolts and one clip holding the splash shield. Remove shield.
Once you’ve removed the shield, the TMU will be visible, as will the two plugs:
- Using 3/8″ square ratchet/breaker bar/impact wrench, remove the fill plug. (Always remove or at least loosen the fill plug before removing drain plug.)
- Place drain pan beneath TMU. Remove drain plug.
- Once fluid is drained, re-install drain plug using new washer. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
- Add DW-1 ATF through fill hole until fluid starts to dribble out (about 2.5L) using whatever device you have.
This is something I made a while ago, and uses compressed air.
Stop once fluid starts dribbling out the fill hole.
- Using new washer, re-install the fill plug. Torque to 35 lb-ft (47 N-m).
- Re-install the splash shield and air deflectors. Torque bolts to 7 lb-ft.
Content Credit: Eric Crowder
Make sure you have the “lip” of the tray pushed past the lip of the filter housing to avoid spills
It took a large amount of force to push the element into position, even with lubing all the rubber bits with new motor oil. Make sure this ridge is exposed or the element isn’t all the way pushed on
US NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 18%
130R White 18%
Berlina Black 18%
Casino White Pearl 13%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 12%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 9%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%
Global NSX Color Mix
Valencia Red Pearl 21%
130R White 19%
Casino White Pearl 15%
Berlina Black 14%
Nouvelle Blue Pearl 11%
Curva Red 10%
Source Silver Metallic 7%
Nord Grey Metallic 3%
Thermal Orange Pearl 0%
Acura has noted that this is a known and documented issue internally but only have affected a very small amount of units, replacement part is same part #.
Issue: 3rd brake light shorted out causing the b5 fuse to blow which ties into the system that determines if your foot is on the brake or not. If this fuse goes out, you will be unable to crank the car. You can check to see if you’re experiencing the issue by simply checking to see if pressing the brake activates the 3rd brake light
Temporary solution: In the fuse box under the hood, use one of the spare fuses to get the car to crank(note: it may also blow that fuse so don’t shut the car off). This will at least prevent you from being stranded like I was.
Permanent resolution: Replace 3rd brake light unit and the b5 fuse.
Affects all 2017 NSXs
SYMPTOM – The MIL comes on with DTC P0128 (Cooling System Malfunction)
Source – http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B17-048.PDF
The twin motor unit fluid is replaced by the maintenance minder’s interval (there isn’t a specific mileage because it is determined by use). The only fluid recommended to be changed based on time is engine oil (once a year, regardless of mileage) and brake fluid (every three years).
First maintenance codes after one year are AB6 . 6 = twin motors
Contributor: René Koos
Report from the audio front lines…
1) The factory sub signal has a 50Hz low pass filter on it. Midbass information has to be recovered from the door speaker signals.
2) The amplifier has some kind of protection mode for the door speakers where it lowers the whole system volume upon the detection of sustained mid bass content.
3) The car is actually *too well sealed* to support the airflow requirements of an upsized subwoofer when the windows are up. The seals between the doors and the pillars, and other parts of the interior, are so good that the constant air pressure pushing back on the subwoofer is substantial. This may explain both the tuning of the factory sub, and the protection mode… pushing against high air pressure for sustained durations could cause amplifier overheat.
Stereo shop and system tuner (who have plenty of experience with other Honda/Acura systems including the ELS ones) were scratching their heads for a while until this picture all came together.
Contributor: Ben Englert